The expansion tank has an outlet hose which is connected into the coolant circuit. The increased coolant volume, created by heat expansion, is directed to the expansion tank through a bleed hose from the top of the radiator.
TWISTIT MOTORS AND TRANSMISSION FULL
When the thermostat opens fully, the full flow of coolant passes through the radiator.Ĭoolant is also drawn through the liquid cooled transmission fluid cooler and the liquid cooled alternator housing by the coolant pump via the coolant circuit. Coolant is able to circulate through the engine and the passenger compartment heater matrix via a thermostat bypass.Īs the temperature increases the thermostat begins to open, allowing cool fluid to be drawn from the radiator bottom hose through the pump and into the cylinder block and hot coolant to flow from the coolant pump housing to the radiator via the radiator top hose, where it is cooled by air passing through the matrix. When the engine is cold, the thermostat is closed and coolant is prevented from circulating through the radiator. Reinstallation is a two man job until the bell housing bolts are in.Īlso, it's a lot easier to get back in if you go ahead and separate the transmission from the transfer case.With the engine running, the coolant pump pulley is driven by an ancillary drive belt. Using a transmission jack makes it a lot easier to get it right.
If you get it wrong you can smash the input shaft into the side of the pilot bearing, which will later seize and make horrible noises. Otherwise you gotta back the tranny out, rotate the shaft a bit, and try again. If you're in gear, you could use the output to turn the input shaft. I got hung up like you did on this job, and it was just a matter of getting the right approach angle and turning the input shaft a bit to get it in. You can shift the transmission into neutral with a screwdriver or maybe even your fingers. It sure sounds like you're just hung up on the splines. What year is your T100? 2WD or 4WD? 4 cylinder, 3.0, or 3.4? Mine has a removable support, and, once you remove the exhaust, there's plenty of room to pull the tranny straight back.
Thanks in advance, I have spent FAR too much time messing with this one step and it's driving me nuts.
No easy way to turn the motor over from underneath to align so I guess I need to get it close and put the shifter back on so I can shift out of neutral and be able to manually turn the transmission.
I pulled it back again to make sure everything was in the right place and it looks good.Ĭan someone confirm that I am overthinking an issue and that I just need to align the splines to complete the installation? I can get the bellhousing over the flywheel, which tells me it's just a matter of final alignment of the splines on the transmission input shaft, but can't get that last 10-15mm or so.Ĭlutch is properly aligned with supplied tool and torqued as per specific FSM directions. Now, (I'm sure this has to be something simple I am missing) I cannot seem to get the transmission all the way back on. I replaced clutch and TOB (barely) and accepted that to be good enough. I found that no matter what I did, I could not get the transmission fully out as the bellhousing would touch the PP. Of course, as many of you know, the transmission support that also houses the torsion bars for the suspension is not removable.Īccording the the FSM they call for removing the engine to remove the transmission.įSM also gives directions on removing the transmission, involving moving backwards, tilting forward, and then dropping out. Doing the clutch on a 97 T100 and it was far more trouble than I anticipated.
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